He claims to have spent more than £9,000 on streetwear, and an average selfie garners more than 20,000 likes. Gully Guy, AKA Leo Mandella, is a 14-year-old from Warwickshire who has 197,000 followers on Instagram, and posts pictures of himself in Supreme, Palace and Bape. The hypebeast world has its own websites (the appropriately named Hypebeast as well as Highsnobiety) Facebook groups ( the Basement with 65,000 members, Sup Talk with 97,000) and its “faces”. In February this year, the queues moved to the Broadway/Lafayette subway station where Supreme MetroCards were for sale. In 2014, when the brand launched a collaboration with Nike, the NYPD shut the launch down due to concerns for public safety. Supreme’s New York City store, on Lafayette Street, is hypebeast’s centre. In his 1979 book, Subculture: The Meaning of Style, Dick Hebdige argues that “humble objects can be magically appropriated ‘stolen’ by subcultural groups and made to carry ‘secret’ meanings which express, in code, a form of resistance.” Hebdige pointed to punk’s safety pin but the same could be said of streetwear items such as the Supreme Obama hoody or the Palace Elton John T-shirt. But the hypebeast scene has all the characteristics of one, both in the gathering of young people on street corners and the obsession over the “right” item to be part of the tribe. Stylist Lotta Volkova, fashion’s current favourite mouthpiece, caused a stir last year when she declared “there are no subcultures any more”. Will, another queue member, wears Supreme army fatigues. Taran is in an immaculate white parka and P for Palace cap. Omer, who is 17, queued for six hours today and will spend about £300 even though he doesn’t “really like it that much” Taran, 16, will spend £200, and has travelled for two hours to get to the store.
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